Spring Time in Haines

Another day to explore.. What to do, I ask myself? After putting another coat of drywall mud on my neighbor Kathleen’s ceiling, I load up the camera and fishing pole and set out. Sometime back, I drove out to Mud Bay and noticed several cabins, houses and dwellings with all sorts of solar panels and windmills adorning the beaches adjacent to said structures. These little set of homes are where the incoming tide from the Lynn Canal meets the long, forested ridge of Mt Riley’s south end, and it it fascinated me. These homes appeared to be accessible by foot alone and the possibility of setting out on foot and along the rocky coast  line to reach the remote part of the Chilkat Peninsula and it’s coast line of the Canal might be a pleasure to see. I set out, crossing the muddy tidal flats of Mud Bay itself, and emerging at the first of the dwellings, I veer south along the rocky coastline and find myself entangled in a sea of rocks; literally millions of barnacles adorn these seaside rocks, and a footstep cannot be taken without some measure of disturbance. I gain the rocky point separating the Lynn from Mud Bay, and the omnipotent Coast Range of Southeast Alaska is dominant and towering. The surf is high, with mighty waves crashing. The views are whimsical and there affect on me great. After wandering the rocks for a spell, I emerge onto a beach head with some solar panels visible, indicating someone’s boat access only cabin. I figure that a stomp through the woods is a better alternative than retracing footing along the rocky shores for a return back. Into the rainforest I go, passing the cabin in question and bushwacking through Devil’s Club and Alder thickets. After a short bit, a trail engages my feet and I am happily trudging through the forest. The trees here are enormous and the forest floor covered with thick moss. It occurs to me; winter is over and springtime in Haines has indeed arrived. Finally, I can see the reaches of Mud Bay through the trees and another house, cabin, woodshed, and other adornments come into view. The trail I am on appears to dead end into this property and unwilling to commit to trespassing on someone’s beautiful setting, I once agin succumb to the great bushwack. Soon I am rambling down a set of back country stairs to the flats below and cross the tidal flats once more and back to the road to the truck. Not a bad way to spend a few hours.

It is still fairly early, So I drive north and find myself again at the Chilkoot river, where I proceed to fish for Dolly Varden under the blazing spring Alaska sky. No fish caught, but that’s OK. Soon the Salmon will be running…

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Battery Point

Working Saturdays is never fun, and today was no exception. After a stint at my neighbors house doing some drywall repair for her, I then headed to my regular job to finish up on the custom shelve’s I am building so the owners can get to applying finish on them. By 1:30 pm I am free for the afternoon. What to do? Go fishing up on the Chilkat? Attempt a hike up to Mt Riley’s still snowy summit? I am tired from a long week and something mellow, yet engaging is in order. I decide to head out to the always straightforward and beautiful Battery Point Trail. I grab binoculars and camera and head over to the trailhead. There are Canadian license plates everywhere and I remember that it is spring break in Canada. The Battery point trail is a fine treat, and I never tire of it’s simple availability of gorgeous rainforest, open, rocky beach, and splendid views of the Chilkoot Mountains. Bears frequent the trail in season and it is common to see migrating birds, Orca’s and Whales out in the water. The rainforest section of the trail is about a mile or so long, and features a twisting, root filled trail that crosses bogs of muskeg, streams, and is as green a place as one is likely to find anywhere. After a spell, one emerges onto the rocky beaches of the Lynn Canal and the Chilkoot Inlet. This leads to a prominent point called Kelgaya Point. It seems that most folks stop here, but the “trail” continues on and becomes more fascinating with each step. Short trails break away from the coast line and across fields and into the twisted Spruce, all the while meandering through a maze of witch dens and goblin hollows creating an ethereal setting. Another long and curving rocky beach brings one to Battery point proper. I have never been past this place, but I would imagine that one could most likely walk all the way to Mud Bay….

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Low Tide on the Chilkat Estuary

I stepped out of the house and walked down to the Chilkat beach at low tide this morning and took a few shots of the mighty Takhinsha peaks and glorious scenery. This is my Sunday church…

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Winter Ogre

After hearing one of my work mates mention there was a snow storm headed our way, I decided that evening to check out NOAA’s website for details. Sure enough: “snow expected, 12-15 inches likely”. So that night, it began to snow softly. 22 hours later, there was 40 inches of snow covering the world., and after spending a good portion of my weekend shoveling snow, I decided that enough was enough and decided to go for a grocery run to town and pedal around a bit. The Surly Ogre, now equipped with the awesome Kenda Klondike studded tires, was just itching to get out of the basement and onto the snow packed streets of Haines. A stop at Mountain Market for some items and then a quick layover at Olerud’s for more grocery items put me pedaling around Old Fort Seward and the hills south of town. Just a quick jaunt to snap some pics and get the beastly Ogre out for a spin…

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Juxtoposition

A mild winter indeed, Haines has been experiencing remarkable conditions as of late. March first, clear and cloudless skies that are bluer than blue, with magic mountains gleaming so clear that it takes me a moment to wipe my eyes and re-focus in order to take them in as they should be taken. Temperatures have been mild as well; daytime highs these last days have hovered in the high thirties, with the darkness temperatures peaking lowly around fifteen. Snow has not fallen since early February, while back in January, snow did not fall at all with any significance; December on the other hand, showed a display of record breaking snowfall, with over 96 inches of the white stuff, breaking all known snowfall accounts since humans have been recording such occurrences. It has been a grand spectacle of remarkable days for some time. Folks are out and about in these fantastic status, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, working. I, unfortunately, and on the same account, fortunately, have been a commitment to the latter, having just bought a house in conjunction with my sister Paloma and mate Angela. This is where I am at. There has been no time for getting out there and falling prey to the world of Alaska that I hold so dear. The juxtaposition is thick, and I am fully committed to the chores of not only woking to pay the mortgage and bills, but to improve and upkeep the dwelling in question.

I am fortunate in the fact that I have favorable workmates to consort with, and a splendid home in which to occupy. This makes me happy, as I have not experienced this home sensation since being “kicked out” of our school bus life in Moab, and subsequently embarking on a self imposed exile from said place. I am overwhelmingly joyous to be in Alaska finally; I am no longer looking back to the potentialities of Moab, because for me, there are none. Alaska is a place of hard work for ones self and the day to day chores of encompassing these duties are inherent to living in a place as magnificent as this. Perhaps one could argue that it is this way anywhere one wants to be, especially in as beautiful a place. But here, it is infinitely different, at least to me. Alaska is a different place. It is a place that I have dreamed of for many years, and after having embarked on two separate ultra long distance bicycle journey’s here, and wracking my brain in ways to make this surreal place my home, I have at last succeeded, and I am grateful.

There will always exist a balance between making a living, wether it be hunting and gathering, or living a life of the modern prose, and enjoying the surroundings that I have labored so hard to accommodate. To me, that is what makes Alaska so special; a life here is a interspersion of both of these philosophies that commands a keen eye, a solid heart, a will of iron, and a temperament and willingness to take a leap of faith that the forest and the animals and the community in which one dwells, will provide. It is hard work indeed. Life in The North is no joke. It takes commitment. It requires a doctrine that is largely missing from the rest of the United States. That is why I am here.

Yesterday, as I was headed out the door to work, a Bald Eagle had placed itself proper at the top of the giant Sitka Spruce tree in my yard. It cawed out at the raven that was tormenting it, looked me square in the eyes, and flew off, likely headed to the side of the Lynn Canal in search of a meal. And I, bound for the finishing of drywall and paint, take glimpse at the glorious glaciers not far off, reminding me of why I am doing what I do.

In a potentially similar fashion, yet at the same time, in a far reached difference, I feel as though Henry David Thoreau might have felt at his cabin at Walden Pond. A different time indeed, but a similar sensation seems to me being evoked. A life in the woods of the north, observing the world from a alternative perspective of his time. One that has been dominated by a sense of predominant commerce and trust in a world of thought that is largely obsessed with technology and and it’s dominance over nature, rather than a personal reflection of the real and natural world before him.

Life in Haines, and anywhere in The North for that matter requires a blending of these concepts. One, partly due to the economic differences here, and the obvious resources available, must be available to the notions that one must cut his own firewood, grow his own vegetables, harvest his own meat, maintain his own dwelling, take care of his own health, take care of his community, and do this all with respect and dignity in regards to the people, forests, and animals involved. To live in balance is the goal, and nothing else will do. It is hard wok, but so is living in the polluted environment of the cities to the south. Even Juneau, a mere 50 miles south, where lie services and goods readily purchased, seems a far cry from here, where one must learn to do things for himself and all commonly available items of the cities are not not so common. Yes, living in The North is a unique experience, to say the least. To dispose of waste and garbage here, one must haul said items to the Haines Borough dump, where trash is disposed of for a fee, by the pound. There is a recycling center here of which most take deep advantage. There is nothing like financial burden to force humans to alter their lifestyle and create less waste. Even in the realm of wildlife is there a uniqueness that prevails. The house I have purchased sits on “Cemetery Hill”, an ancient native burial ground, and is a know Brown (Grizzly) Bear thoroughfare. Gerry, the previous owner, told me a story of a big Brown decimating an air tight freezer full of fish on the back porch. Life here requires diligence. If you want or need something that is not locally available, such as a stereo amplifier or a computer monitor, one must decide wether to do without, or pay a dear price for it’s transport from the “outside”. In Haines, there is no UPS or Fed Ex; the post office is the main source for the delivery of personal goods. All other things must be delivered via the barge from Juneau or Seattle, or be flown in, all of which are expensive options. This notion keeps it real, and keeps unchecked consumerism under wraps. If one is flying somewhere abroad, your options are to catch a 2-4 hour ferry to Juneau, spend the night there and fly out the following day, or drive to Whitehorse, some 260 miles into Canada, all the while dealing with customs and international flights. Flying out of the tiny Haines airport is a costly and unreliable option as most planes are grounded during inclement weather, which is often. The mail is also flown in, which in times of bad weather, becomes held up. Diligence, I say. Perhaps that is why there is a real sense of community in Haines. Being very new here, I still feel like an outsider, but in fact I am a member of this scene; I care about what happens here, because it is now my home. I still do not know that many folks here. The main social arenas seem to be the Mountain Market, where coffee and organic and local food can be bought, and the Haines Borough Public Library. There are several bars here as well, of which I have yet to step foot upon. There are community events here quite often I see, but, as of yet, I have not had time or energy for. Perhaps when Angela arrives, we might embark this.

Spring seems to be in the air now, and it is hard not to get excited about it. Be forewarned however; March, I am told, can be a real blizzard. Just when you have reserved yourself to warm and dry spring-like conditions, March can drop a torrent of snow unlike any other month in a normal year, some times depositing 2 or 3 feet in a single storm. Snow removal is a challenge as well; one must be willing to acquire the necessary equipment for said task, shovel like crazy, or hire it out to one of several people who have heavy equipment for the job. Sometimes all three might come into play. The typical hire out to plow a 100 yard driveway might be 60-80 dollars a pop. That’s per storm. It can add up. I for the time being, will be shovel happy.

I sat down at the computer yesterday to go through the photos of last summer’s 2600 mile bicycle journey, and it made my heart ache. It made me long so badly the weight of the heavily laden bicycle, the quiet solitude of the Alaskan forest, the smell of sweat, the rain, and the day to day scenery change that a long distance bicycle trip affords. For the time being, I am on a different adventure, one that I am excited about; the bicycle is on my mind, however. It has been some time since I have ridden my it, due to the reasons already spoken, and today I am to remedy this. So now, I will shut this damn computer down, get on the savage Ogre, and pedal away, into the Alaska I love.

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A Watchful Eye

This weekend turned out to be the clearest of the clear days so far this winter. At 8 am Saturday morning, as the sun was sleepily coming to fruitation, and gently coloring the peaks a flaming orange, the stillness and the contrast to the air was crystalizing. I set up the camera on the beach at the Chilkat Estuary, aimed it at the glaciers to the west, and let ‘er rip. A sequence of photos at F22 and an 8 second shutter, spread at intervals of 20 seconds, ought to make a nice sunrise time lapse I recon. I left to get some coffe…

The weather this last few weeks has been of a foreign nature. For more than 2 weeks now, it has been raining almost without fail; in fact, last night was the first night it dipped below freezing in 10 days or so. Strange indeed, since it is the  middle of Alaska winter; It is likely 30 below in Fairbanks.

After a spell, I head back to the beach to retrieve my camera and get off to work for an hour or so to get ahead on some projects. Today’s project is to get some tongue-in-groove panels made for the attic and plumbing access holes in the house we are buying. Lately, my adventure comes in the form of this new concept of buying a home; it is a new breed of adventure for sure.

Later,  getting back to the place I am staying, I process the RAW images into jpg’s and settle them into a delicious time lapse video; this one comes out better that I had hoped, and later, when it was accidentally deleted, I was heartbroken.

Up sunday morning and today is at least as glorious as the last, so off I go camera in hand and headed up the highway north of Haines, bound for the Canadian border, where gifts of stupndeous mountains and glaciers occur.

Driving north, the biggest female Moose I have ever seen, steps onto the roadway and galops across; a gentle swerve and some easy braking sees her clear. She must have been nearly 6 feet tall and close to 900 lbs. She was one big mama… I head up to the Mosquito Lake road and turn around. Stops along the Chilkat River to spy Eagles and Dolly Varden reward me with mesmerizing views of the glorious mountains and glaciers.

This place is under my skin, and I will keep a watchful eye on her…

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Just Another Day in Alaska

Winter life in Haines has been good to me so far; insofar as I have a decent paying job that I can handle, a warm and dry place to throw down in the evenings, and all set in the most beautiful place on Earth. What more could I really want? Well, work consumes most of my time and exhaustion consumes nearly what is left, so there seems little time left for adventuring.  Days are Alaskan short, and the weather, at least on my days off, tends to be, well, blizzard like. On this day I awoke, a Sunday morning, to a day unlike most: clear and striking, begging me to grab skiis and poles and tele boots and pack and camera and off into the world I go. Not the world of floor joists and rafters and drywall, but one of magical forest sunken into deep and drifted snow, blanketed in winter, with a parade of peaks jutting from the Coast Range from a world frozen and still. I stop by Mountain Market for a Bolso and a cup of mud to get my self in order, all the while reading a book on the geology of Southeast Alaska to fill the time and engage my mind a bit towards the things that strike me in regard to Alaska’s poignant location in this magnificent world.

Being new to Haines and not having much time as of late to explore and find the good places to go for winter exploration by skii, I decide to embark northward, up the Haines Highway to  mile 7 where the trail head for Mt Ripinsky’s 7 Mile Saddle lay. I figure it is worth a shot, since all I aim to accomplish really, is get a good look at the jagged escarpment of the Cathedral Peaks and the mighty and glaciated Mt Emmerich. If I actually got to spin the skiis around for a turn or three, it would be a bonus I reckon. People have spoken of the trail as hard to follow and ridiculously steep, but what the hell, I’ll give it a shot.

I drive north, searching for a place to pull over where I won’t get buried by the occasional snow plow and spy a pullout on the west side of the road. Thinking ahead, I gingerly back into the paking spot in annticipation of having to gun it hard upon a later escape from it’s snowy grip. Hiking up the road with skiis in hand the quarter mile to the trail, I can see immediately that this is indeed one steep mutha.

I strap the skins to the boards and the boards to my feet and off I go, poling through waist deep powder and aiming for thetreeline up ahead. As soon as I enter the trees, it becomes apparent that following the trail will be impossible, as no one has been here for many days it seems. There are no tracks an, once past the innitial BLM sign, no real sign of a trail at all. There is only deep, unconsolodated snow oand steep, endless forest for navigation.

Up I go, switchbacking, side stepping, and struggling at times to gain even a foot of elevation. Twelve inches gained in the endless powder, six inches lost. After an hour of this considerable effort, I look back toward the valley from which I have come, only to understand that I have climbed only a few hundred feet. The reward which I seek however, is nearing. The grand peaks of the Cathedral Group are coming into view, and I guess that another hundred feet up, I will be in their full and complete presence. Up I go, my heart racing from exertion and anticipating the fine view ahead. It has been downright fowl weather these last few weeks and views of the area have been extremely limited. Soon the mountains and the frozen Chilkat River are in view, and as my camera clicks away, I fight back the tears of joy to be once again witness to this right place.

Struggling through the steep, tree lined chutes and tightly forested hillside, it did not occur  that skiing out of here might be an issue for me. I am a terrible skier, I must freely admit. I skii about as well as a Brown Bear plays chess. I am what serious skier’s sometimes call a “Survival Skier”, meaning that upon pointing the skiis downhill, I am merely surviving the descent, rather than gracefully carving an artform out of it. There was a time, many years back, that I could possibly say that I had surpassed the survival skier mode, but that was then and this was now; besides, the tree lined escape route was going to be tricky even for an experienced back country snow traveler. After sometime bushwhacking through Devil’s Club and Alder, and more than my share of faceplants in the deep snow, I emerged onto the shoulder of the highway and salvation from the treachery above. A pleasant skii up the frozen and snow covered Chilkat puts me back at my truck in no time.

On the short drive back to town, one of my tire chains loosens and begins to clank against the wheel well of the truck. I decide to pull over to investigate and spot a plowed pullout ahead. As I veer of of the comfort of the packed surface of the road and onto the pullout, my truck, and heart sink deep into the depths of unpacked snow. The pullout was not what it seemed, and now finding myself on this fine and glorious day, beneath the truck snow shovel in hand digging for all I am worth. It seemed appropriate to me now, to quote  a fellow that Angela and I had passed on The Denali Highway earlier in the summer who was changing a flat tire on his truck in the mud in an Alaskan downpour. We waved to him and he responded, “Just another day in Alaska!”7 Mile Skii_1 7 Mile Skii_2 7 Mile Skii_3 7 Mile Skii_4 7 Mile Skii_5 7 Mile Skii_6 7 Mile Skii

Haines Aurora Timelapse

A quickie from the other night…

The Frozen Chilkat

A Few Shots From This Morning’s Walk Along The Mighty Chilkat River…
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Unshakable

This place; the cold and damp mountain air, the crunch of the ice below my feet, the wolf tracks I am following, the not so distant peaks and their adorning glaciers, these forests, and the creatures that live in them all have a hold on me that is unshakable. The weather today is the type that makes any Alaskan winter day a stellar one. At 21 degrees, it is cold, but not too cold, and the clear blue Alaskan sky, and it’s wisp of distant clouds have become a play up for the jagged peaks of the Chilkat Mountains; their glaciers visible in a clean and striking fashion to anyone who may ponder their geographic position, and strikes in my heart and mind, an acuity  that they are the creators of all life in this magnificent place. It is the glaciers. They are a gift; a cosmic bank account of life. They create the kind of river’s that Salmon swim to spawn, bringing the Eagles, the Wolve’s and the Bear’s. These are the things that have brought the  Human’s here as well, over 12,000 years prior.

It has been some time since I have been immersed in a large, cosmopolitan chaos, save a stint in both Anchorage and Fairbanks earlier in the year. This I do not miss. Walking along the banks of this river, with the mighty peaks and glaciers above, I cannot imagine myself living anywhere else, and cannot imagine why so many others do. I am grateful that few have the desire to live in a place such as this; if it were different with people to want this kind of life, one of natural beauty and simplicity, this place would not be what it is. It would be San Francisco or Seattle, or even Anchorage. These places were once fantastic places of natural splendor as well, long before humanity got it’s grip around it, dammed the rivers, killed off the Grizzlies and Wolve’s, and polluted the landscape with a chaotic sprawl of freeways, factories, and skylines filled with concrete and steel. This, has not yet happened here. Yet. I hope, for the sake of the Bear, Eagle, Wolf, and Human, that  it never, ever does.

In the forest it is dark, not errily so, but has a quality that resembles a dream that one cannot quite get a hold of; a reminder of a distant realm in which fantasies are conjured and aspirations are taken ahold. This forest is a prdoct of the those brilliant glaciers and all that precipitation that formed them. At 50 inches a year, Haines gets fairly wet, but is actaully in a dry zone compared to places further south on the coast. Juneau, an hour ferry ride south, for example, gets an average annual rainfall of around 65 inches, and Ketchikan, even further south, recieves yet more. The rain, and at higher elevations, the snow, is what defines this place. It is what has created the Muskeg bogs and the giant ferns and the gigantic Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock and Cedar, and the massive Cottonwood trees engulfing the landscape here. I gaze out over the frozen river to it’s disatnt shore and visualize a world that allows things to grow and prosper in natural balance, free from the manipulization of corrupt human hands.

I grew up believing and later knowing that all places wild and free were special ones and as I grew older, began to slowly realize that these places were becoming smaller and fewer. The towns that edge some of these places, towns such as Haines, Talkeetna, Coldfoot, or Seward, are in existance still because of an occurance of a conumdrum; a paradox. These towns, and many, many more like them, exist, in part, to extract oil, timber,fish or metal from it’s surroundings, and left unchecked, serve to only desroy. They also exist to present to the “Eco-Tourism” faction to countless persons from such places like San Francisco or Seattle, and places across the globe. To show these people a lancscape that has not been destroyed; yet. Herein lies the paradox, yet there is a further potential contraditction. Will these “eco tourists” return home with a new, greater respect for these wild places in there hearts and let them be? Will they go further than that and even go to bat for said places and fight for them from the destruction of corporate gain? Or even still, will these people look at these places with an eye of opporotunity for exploitation. The latter has been historically more accurate, but I can only hope that by educating the people that come here, these forests and mountains will continue to be the sacred, magical places that they still are, and continue to be the home to more Bears and Wolves than Humans. This is what I wish for…

Reflections of Haines

At 23 degrees farenheight, and winds at a steady 15 knots, the temperature at the vicinity of my roadside camp next to the Chilkoot Inlet is roughly 0. The seas are big this afternoon, with swells of around 5 feet, sending waves crashing into the granite boulders of the beach head surf. Every once in a while, a really big one will wreck into shore and a great splash of water explodes into the crisp winter air, highlighted by the dreamy peaks to the north. If a careful eye is surveyed across the channel, one may witness an Orca breaching or a Grey Whale spouting, ever reminding that this is there home too. The water here, always a vivid turquoise, commands respect. Even from the most seasoned vessel bound seafarer, as the water temperature, regardless of time of year, remains a nearconstant 45 degrees. In spring and fall, Brown Bears can often be seen scouring the western shorelines of the Chilkat Inlet or the mouth of the Chilkoot river. A mere 20 miles upstream from town, hundreds of Bald Eagles can be witnessed in the fall. Salmon runs are frequent here, with runs of all 5 species of the best food on the planet occuring at intervals spread throughout the non winter season. Winter here is 7 months and summer 3, with a month each for transitional periods in between. The climate is of the maritime variety with the ecology being regarded as that of a temperate rainforest. A short, steep, and beautiful hike up the Mt Riplinsky Trail exposes all. Giant Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock grace the slopes and valleys, and a walk among them will reveal great ferns and seas of moss covering the forest floor. A scan of the peaks on the other side of the Inlet exposes glaciers and icefalls; the hallmark of high latitude coastal mountains. The people here are as friendly as anyone could ask for and a genuine sense of community prevails. A walk down Main Street will be greeted with smiles and greetings. In Haines, even the cops wave to say hello.

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The Panhandle

That morning,  leaving Fairbanks, in the dark, I had to concentrate enormously on the snowy, icy road. Two weeks prior I had an apiphany: I had to leave and go to Haines to make a life for myself and Angela. My job here, caring for and training 30 dogs was a mixed bag for me. I loved the dogs and I loved the forest and Sven’s beautiful cabin, and the quite and the solitude. But it was a seven days a week gig with little pay, and it was not Haines, which is where I wanted to be. Leaving, unfortunately, has damaged my friendship with Sven, a man whom I respect a great deal. So on the road I am, once again. Excitment now fills my heart as I pull away from Fairbanks, headed south, bound for Alaska’s northern panhandle.

It is 22 degrees,  snowing lightly and the traffic thin. It is November 1st, 2013. I drive south, through Delta Junction, the scene of an earlier disaster back in June, whene I had lost an envelope containing my life savings; a sum of nearly 4000 dollars. I had a crazy idea or two that I might actually find the missing envelope in one of perhaps three places I could think of: A road side pullout, with views of the omnipotent Alaska Range, where a picture was taken on that day, a creek where a bath had been taken, a campspot in the woods near Tok, where I had spent two nights regrouping. Searching these places for my goods felt both empowering and futile at the same time. I was looking for a needle in the gigantic haystack of Alaska. I pull into Tok and proceed to walk to my usual camp there, located adjecent to the school in the woods near the edge of town. It is a nice spot and it feels somewhat like home to me. However, the envelope was not recovered, and on I went.

On the way from Delta to Tok, one becomes the Alaska Range. Mountains and streams appear, high counrty unfolds. It feels good to be in the highlands once again, and out of the beautiful but routine forest of the Fairbanks area. Being in the area of Tok, I am reminded how much I love this part of Alaska; it truly is one of my favorite places. The white spruce forests here are remarkable, the creeks and streams clear, the rivers deep, and the Alaska Range towering. It is a deeply beautiful and spiritual place to me. Earlier in the summer, I had stopped the bicycle to gaze upon a lone moose fiording the mighty Tanana River, keeping her head high and swimming madly. Southward I continue. Stopping for a walk along the icy banks of the Chisana River, I am gifted the sight of wolf tracks; mother and cub, traveling the river corridor, hunting and living the life they were born to live. The morning is crisp and cold and the Chisana is forming a skin of ice that looks as though could be walked upon but cannot. A breeze picks up a bit and it is getting colder still. I bushwack back to the truck and point it southeast, towards the Yukon border. After crossing, I see the sights of the mightiest Black Spruce Taiga forests I have ever seen. I remeber these from riding this part of the Alaska Highway back in 2011. Tha taiga goes on everlasting and my heart soars at it’s perseverance.

Eventually, I pull of the highway and drive up a small dirt road to a high point with a view. It is exactly what I had hoped for. From this vatage point, I can see all of the major peaks of the Icefield region of the Northern St Elias Range: Mt Luciana 17,147′, Mt Steele 16,644′ Mt Wood 17,000+, and several other unamed 15,000-16,000 footers. This section of mountains, the St Elias, and physically connected to the Wrangel Mountains in Southeast Alaska, is the largest chain of mountains in North America. The Alaska Range, though sporting the Queen Denali, and nearly 600 miles long, is still smaller than the Wrangel/St Elias. These Mountains are the real deal: Big, bad, remote and heavilly glaciated. In fact, the St Elias, the area surrounding Mt Logan in particular, contains the western hemispheres largest non polar glaciers.

I arrive, a bit later, at the hamlet of Haines Junction. With friendly folks, views of the tremendoulsy striking Kluane Range, and one of the best loved bakeries in North America, Haines Junction is a place I always look forward to visiting. However, upon entering town, I see first off that the great little grocey store there, the only one in town, has burned to the ground. Even worse, there is a “Closed” and “For Sale” sign on the bakery. Dissapointed, I buy 10 dollars worth of gas and head for glaciers of the Coast Range and the Chilkoot Valley, home of Haines, Alaska.

I cross the border, back into the USSR, and roll down valley, along the Chilkoot River, with forests of magnificent Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Cedar and Cottonwood. I camp in a pullout, excited to see Haines in the daylight. Morning time, I pass through the Bald Eagle Preserve there, and see more Eagles within my field of view than I had ever seen in all the years of my life previously. 60? 70? 120? Who knows… There are many. It is the  last bit of the Chum Salmon run as well, and the Eagles are feeding well upon them. One brute of a fish, pink and black and bruised to hell, swims towards the shore and is nearly 4 feet long. I see no bears however; they have all crawled off to their winter nap and won’t be seen again till spring.

Haines is a great little town of about 2500 people, located along the inlets of the Chilkoot and the Chilkat, at the head of the Lynn Canal, North America’s longest Fiord. There are glaciers visible from town and is surrounded by the incredibly jagged peaks of the Chilkat Range to the east, and the Coast Range of the Glacier Bay region to the west. There are a ton of Brown (Grizzly) Bears here as well. It is truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.

The first week of being in Haines was rough on me, however. Cold nights, crammed into the back of my truck, looking for a job and a place to live, and not knowing anyone  in town, was challenging to say the least. Self doubt began to creep into my heart. Had I made the right choice to leave Fairbanks and come to Haines? Should I just go back to Utah, which I had left more than 30 months ago? Should I just stick it out?  A conversation with Angela on the telephone cheered me up and convinced me that I had made the correct decision. After a week or so, I had scored a free slide in camper for the truck, and a full time building job with some folks whom I enjoy being around. Each night I camp in a different, beautiful spot along the coastal waters of the inlets of the Lynn Canal, surrounded by the most beatuful mountains one can imagine, and dream of a long life here.

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