11 exposure HDR of the peaks of the upper Chilkat River drainage, Alaska.

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Chilkat Pass

A trip up to Chilkat Pass on a Saturday morning in early June gifts Angela and I the presence of mountains, tundra, animals, and smiles all around!Chilkat Pass_1 Chilkat Pass_2 Chilkat Pass_3 Chilkat Pass_4 Chilkat Pass_5 Chilkat Pass_6 Chilkat Pass_7 Chilkat Pass_8 Chilkat Pass_9 Chilkat Pass_11 Chilkat Pass_12 Chilkat Pass_13 Chilkat Pass_14 Chilkat Pass_15 Chilkat Pass

Seduction Point Saturday

A hike out the Seduction Point Trail on Saturday provides a relaxing atmosphere in which to take in the beauty of the Chilkat Mountains, glaciers, forest, ocean, and wildflowers; reminding us how glorious a place we live!

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Battery Point Cove Time Lapse

Paradise Cove

A full day off and fine weather to boot is a rare day indeed in these times of deep employment and mortgage. The venerable Surly Ogre and I decide, after a brief discussion, that a trip down peninsula to the enchanting Paradise Cove will do just fine. It is a road ride all the way, but the Ogre does not mind and says nothing about it. So off we go, down the hill to the Chilkat Estuary and a smooth, flat spin along the coastline; Eagles overhead screaming their mating call and sea Gulls drifting silently in search of a meal. We are a happy pair, the Ogre and I;  We pedal along the rocky shores of Letnikof Bay and past the old cannery to the brief hill that rounds the bend to the ultra hip “community” of Mud Bay. Weeks past, I had the pleasure of working out here on a set of “backcountry” stairs for my friend Jake. The location, an entirely awesome cabin parked atop the beach rocks directly across the inlet from the Rainbow Glacier, Chilkat Mountains, and Kochu Island. This area is true deep salt water and sports untold numbers of rich and broad marine life and mammals.

Today, I have brought the camera and mini tripod to shoot a time lapse of the unnamed peak I have a desire to climb someday. It is a majestic mountain above the Rainbow Glacier and offers a nice, moderate looking multi pitch alpine ice route up it’s north eastern face. The only trouble, is how to access it? The area below the Rainbow is definitely out: cliffs, several hundred feet tall and consisting of a chossy looking substance sitting quietly below a barrier above of gently perched seracs, waiting to fall and clobber the unaware.

Today, I was hoping for a few clouds to make the time lapse more interesting, but alas, it is a crystal clear day. The sun playing it’s rotation game of light will have to provide interest enough as it moves slowly across the sky and illuminating the upper icefalls of the Rainbow Glacier.

As the camera clickity clicks away, I have an hour to kill, so I set myself down, and with the always necessary binoculars in hand, begin to scope the water and shorelines for animals. I scan the far shore of the inlet for Bears and the eastern shore of Kochu Island for Sea Lions and such. At the northern tip of the island, a lone Bald Eagle is perched atop the furthest tree out, scanning the water and shoreline for tasty snacks. I return to scanning the water. Soon I spot several Harbor Seals frolicking together in a group. They disappear and then again return. Then a lone Seal pops it’s head just feet away from my perch to say hello. We stare and I talk, and then it is gone. Looking out across the sun glistened water, I spot dorsal fins. It is a school of porpoises moving past. Then far beyond, a larger fin appears, then dives. It resurfaces and then blows. I can see it is a large Orca and soon it too  disappears into the deep. More Eagles cry overhead and I realize once again just how much magic this place conjures. It is true paradise on earth.

On the ride home, I spot a roadie on his ultra light, ultra thin specimen of speed and agility, and with stylee super shades adorning his skull, he turns onto Mud Bay Road and I wave; he looks at me squarely and does not wave, but instead hits the pedals harder. Does he imagine that the dude on the heavy and slow Ogre with the loaded down panniers full of camera gear is not really a fellow cyclist? Perhaps his lycra is too tight and restricting blood flow to critical areas of the body. Or perhaps the high dollar Italian gadgetry bolted to his bicycle is too shiny and was perhaps blinded by their light and there for could not see me. Perhaps, he is simply an elitist bugger. The Ogre snickers, and Eagle screams, and my legs pedal on home.

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Spring Time in Haines

Another day to explore.. What to do, I ask myself? After putting another coat of drywall mud on my neighbor Kathleen’s ceiling, I load up the camera and fishing pole and set out. Sometime back, I drove out to Mud Bay and noticed several cabins, houses and dwellings with all sorts of solar panels and windmills adorning the beaches adjacent to said structures. These little set of homes are where the incoming tide from the Lynn Canal meets the long, forested ridge of Mt Riley’s south end, and it it fascinated me. These homes appeared to be accessible by foot alone and the possibility of setting out on foot and along the rocky coast  line to reach the remote part of the Chilkat Peninsula and it’s coast line of the Canal might be a pleasure to see. I set out, crossing the muddy tidal flats of Mud Bay itself, and emerging at the first of the dwellings, I veer south along the rocky coastline and find myself entangled in a sea of rocks; literally millions of barnacles adorn these seaside rocks, and a footstep cannot be taken without some measure of disturbance. I gain the rocky point separating the Lynn from Mud Bay, and the omnipotent Coast Range of Southeast Alaska is dominant and towering. The surf is high, with mighty waves crashing. The views are whimsical and there affect on me great. After wandering the rocks for a spell, I emerge onto a beach head with some solar panels visible, indicating someone’s boat access only cabin. I figure that a stomp through the woods is a better alternative than retracing footing along the rocky shores for a return back. Into the rainforest I go, passing the cabin in question and bushwacking through Devil’s Club and Alder thickets. After a short bit, a trail engages my feet and I am happily trudging through the forest. The trees here are enormous and the forest floor covered with thick moss. It occurs to me; winter is over and springtime in Haines has indeed arrived. Finally, I can see the reaches of Mud Bay through the trees and another house, cabin, woodshed, and other adornments come into view. The trail I am on appears to dead end into this property and unwilling to commit to trespassing on someone’s beautiful setting, I once agin succumb to the great bushwack. Soon I am rambling down a set of back country stairs to the flats below and cross the tidal flats once more and back to the road to the truck. Not a bad way to spend a few hours.

It is still fairly early, So I drive north and find myself again at the Chilkoot river, where I proceed to fish for Dolly Varden under the blazing spring Alaska sky. No fish caught, but that’s OK. Soon the Salmon will be running…

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Battery Point

Working Saturdays is never fun, and today was no exception. After a stint at my neighbors house doing some drywall repair for her, I then headed to my regular job to finish up on the custom shelve’s I am building so the owners can get to applying finish on them. By 1:30 pm I am free for the afternoon. What to do? Go fishing up on the Chilkat? Attempt a hike up to Mt Riley’s still snowy summit? I am tired from a long week and something mellow, yet engaging is in order. I decide to head out to the always straightforward and beautiful Battery Point Trail. I grab binoculars and camera and head over to the trailhead. There are Canadian license plates everywhere and I remember that it is spring break in Canada. The Battery point trail is a fine treat, and I never tire of it’s simple availability of gorgeous rainforest, open, rocky beach, and splendid views of the Chilkoot Mountains. Bears frequent the trail in season and it is common to see migrating birds, Orca’s and Whales out in the water. The rainforest section of the trail is about a mile or so long, and features a twisting, root filled trail that crosses bogs of muskeg, streams, and is as green a place as one is likely to find anywhere. After a spell, one emerges onto the rocky beaches of the Lynn Canal and the Chilkoot Inlet. This leads to a prominent point called Kelgaya Point. It seems that most folks stop here, but the “trail” continues on and becomes more fascinating with each step. Short trails break away from the coast line and across fields and into the twisted Spruce, all the while meandering through a maze of witch dens and goblin hollows creating an ethereal setting. Another long and curving rocky beach brings one to Battery point proper. I have never been past this place, but I would imagine that one could most likely walk all the way to Mud Bay….

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Low Tide on the Chilkat Estuary

I stepped out of the house and walked down to the Chilkat beach at low tide this morning and took a few shots of the mighty Takhinsha peaks and glorious scenery. This is my Sunday church…

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Grateful

Haines I love the fact that I can gaze out from the deck of my home and peer into the dark forest and see the contrasting colors and shades of the snow reflecting form it’s floor. I love the fact that Alaska is a place I have dreamed of my whole life and I am finally in her. I love that I have a home that fits my basic and artistic needs. I love the fact that I have a family that has supported me in all of my worldly adventures an has not judged me for such. I love that I have a woman in my life that is crazier than my myself and backs me on the decisions I make to create a better and more adventurous life for myself. I love the fact that I have friends and acquaintances that allow me to be me. I am thankful for the fact that I can gaze, from the deck of my home, and see Alaska’s fantastic Chillkat Mountains. I love that I can see active and flowing glaciers from many spots near my home. I am thankful for the many aspects of the world that I am only now coming to understand. I am thankful for my bicycle and it’s manifestation of travel and foresight. I am thankful for all of the friends and peers I have known in the past whom I rarely speak, but think of often. Thank You… I am grateful for the adventures I have yet to embark, and I am thankful for my health and age. I love the fact that the world is an ever evolving place that one might allow a change to occur, if only one has the courage. I hate the fact that I sometimes become paranoid of the world and the people in it, but I am thankful that I have the power most of the time to overcome it and, once again, feel joy. Thank You.

Call Me Crazy

The other day, while nailing hardwood flooring the the sub floor of the house I am being paid to re-assemble  (a re-model), with the radio cranking out all things I mostly abhor when they are not playing music, an advertisement came along with a woman purveying her stature for election to some arcane political office, enticing all who listen that what Alaska needs is a better economic future in the form of upholding, and the enticement of more drilling for oil, the further decimation of one of the most fragile places on Earth. Her main and only stand point for election was one of ensuring that Alaska be pushed and pushed and further endowed that we have the top place in the extraction of fossil fuels to fuel it’s economy. This was her only standpoint. Now I ask, would I really want to vote for a person who’s main and only objective for Alaska’s future be one of a dying technology without so much as a faint mention of what might be possible for future generation upon generation; with the notion that far greater concepts might take hold in this world of today as we know it? Especially in a place with as much eminent resources of beauty and wildness that this magnificent place offers? Seems like backwards thinking to me. I know this for a fact: there is more to our way of life than mere economy. It takes a different form of thinking that we have been on the verge of for generations now, and for political offices to endear the contorted thinking of more raping of the landscape and less of altering our way of life and thinking are preposterous to me.

It certainly is surprising to me, however, when I go to Mountain Market on occasion, there are still those that seem to feel that it is some how in fashion to keep their truck running while they sip their coffee inside. When I see this I think, “good thing fuel cheap:”… at $4.40 a gallon for gasoline and $4,80 for diesel, it sure as hell isn’t cheap. Not that price is the issue, because it certainly is not. Having respect for yourself and all those around you is important. This mentality is exactly the sort that will keep officials aforementioned above in office. Not that I believe wholly in the concept of government or voting for that matter; to me, it is an arcane ideal that is required to vanish and the notion that we need to take complete responsibility for ourselves instead take it’s place. I realize that this notion will stir the shit pot, and most will disagree, that we need government and such, but what we need, in my opinion, is real and genuine spiritual growth in regards to the natural world and ourselves. All else will fall into place. Call me crazy…

Juxtoposition

A mild winter indeed, Haines has been experiencing remarkable conditions as of late. March first, clear and cloudless skies that are bluer than blue, with magic mountains gleaming so clear that it takes me a moment to wipe my eyes and re-focus in order to take them in as they should be taken. Temperatures have been mild as well; daytime highs these last days have hovered in the high thirties, with the darkness temperatures peaking lowly around fifteen. Snow has not fallen since early February, while back in January, snow did not fall at all with any significance; December on the other hand, showed a display of record breaking snowfall, with over 96 inches of the white stuff, breaking all known snowfall accounts since humans have been recording such occurrences. It has been a grand spectacle of remarkable days for some time. Folks are out and about in these fantastic status, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, working. I, unfortunately, and on the same account, fortunately, have been a commitment to the latter, having just bought a house in conjunction with my sister Paloma and mate Angela. This is where I am at. There has been no time for getting out there and falling prey to the world of Alaska that I hold so dear. The juxtaposition is thick, and I am fully committed to the chores of not only woking to pay the mortgage and bills, but to improve and upkeep the dwelling in question.

I am fortunate in the fact that I have favorable workmates to consort with, and a splendid home in which to occupy. This makes me happy, as I have not experienced this home sensation since being “kicked out” of our school bus life in Moab, and subsequently embarking on a self imposed exile from said place. I am overwhelmingly joyous to be in Alaska finally; I am no longer looking back to the potentialities of Moab, because for me, there are none. Alaska is a place of hard work for ones self and the day to day chores of encompassing these duties are inherent to living in a place as magnificent as this. Perhaps one could argue that it is this way anywhere one wants to be, especially in as beautiful a place. But here, it is infinitely different, at least to me. Alaska is a different place. It is a place that I have dreamed of for many years, and after having embarked on two separate ultra long distance bicycle journey’s here, and wracking my brain in ways to make this surreal place my home, I have at last succeeded, and I am grateful.

There will always exist a balance between making a living, wether it be hunting and gathering, or living a life of the modern prose, and enjoying the surroundings that I have labored so hard to accommodate. To me, that is what makes Alaska so special; a life here is a interspersion of both of these philosophies that commands a keen eye, a solid heart, a will of iron, and a temperament and willingness to take a leap of faith that the forest and the animals and the community in which one dwells, will provide. It is hard work indeed. Life in The North is no joke. It takes commitment. It requires a doctrine that is largely missing from the rest of the United States. That is why I am here.

Yesterday, as I was headed out the door to work, a Bald Eagle had placed itself proper at the top of the giant Sitka Spruce tree in my yard. It cawed out at the raven that was tormenting it, looked me square in the eyes, and flew off, likely headed to the side of the Lynn Canal in search of a meal. And I, bound for the finishing of drywall and paint, take glimpse at the glorious glaciers not far off, reminding me of why I am doing what I do.

In a potentially similar fashion, yet at the same time, in a far reached difference, I feel as though Henry David Thoreau might have felt at his cabin at Walden Pond. A different time indeed, but a similar sensation seems to me being evoked. A life in the woods of the north, observing the world from a alternative perspective of his time. One that has been dominated by a sense of predominant commerce and trust in a world of thought that is largely obsessed with technology and and it’s dominance over nature, rather than a personal reflection of the real and natural world before him.

Life in Haines, and anywhere in The North for that matter requires a blending of these concepts. One, partly due to the economic differences here, and the obvious resources available, must be available to the notions that one must cut his own firewood, grow his own vegetables, harvest his own meat, maintain his own dwelling, take care of his own health, take care of his community, and do this all with respect and dignity in regards to the people, forests, and animals involved. To live in balance is the goal, and nothing else will do. It is hard wok, but so is living in the polluted environment of the cities to the south. Even Juneau, a mere 50 miles south, where lie services and goods readily purchased, seems a far cry from here, where one must learn to do things for himself and all commonly available items of the cities are not not so common. Yes, living in The North is a unique experience, to say the least. To dispose of waste and garbage here, one must haul said items to the Haines Borough dump, where trash is disposed of for a fee, by the pound. There is a recycling center here of which most take deep advantage. There is nothing like financial burden to force humans to alter their lifestyle and create less waste. Even in the realm of wildlife is there a uniqueness that prevails. The house I have purchased sits on “Cemetery Hill”, an ancient native burial ground, and is a know Brown (Grizzly) Bear thoroughfare. Gerry, the previous owner, told me a story of a big Brown decimating an air tight freezer full of fish on the back porch. Life here requires diligence. If you want or need something that is not locally available, such as a stereo amplifier or a computer monitor, one must decide wether to do without, or pay a dear price for it’s transport from the “outside”. In Haines, there is no UPS or Fed Ex; the post office is the main source for the delivery of personal goods. All other things must be delivered via the barge from Juneau or Seattle, or be flown in, all of which are expensive options. This notion keeps it real, and keeps unchecked consumerism under wraps. If one is flying somewhere abroad, your options are to catch a 2-4 hour ferry to Juneau, spend the night there and fly out the following day, or drive to Whitehorse, some 260 miles into Canada, all the while dealing with customs and international flights. Flying out of the tiny Haines airport is a costly and unreliable option as most planes are grounded during inclement weather, which is often. The mail is also flown in, which in times of bad weather, becomes held up. Diligence, I say. Perhaps that is why there is a real sense of community in Haines. Being very new here, I still feel like an outsider, but in fact I am a member of this scene; I care about what happens here, because it is now my home. I still do not know that many folks here. The main social arenas seem to be the Mountain Market, where coffee and organic and local food can be bought, and the Haines Borough Public Library. There are several bars here as well, of which I have yet to step foot upon. There are community events here quite often I see, but, as of yet, I have not had time or energy for. Perhaps when Angela arrives, we might embark this.

Spring seems to be in the air now, and it is hard not to get excited about it. Be forewarned however; March, I am told, can be a real blizzard. Just when you have reserved yourself to warm and dry spring-like conditions, March can drop a torrent of snow unlike any other month in a normal year, some times depositing 2 or 3 feet in a single storm. Snow removal is a challenge as well; one must be willing to acquire the necessary equipment for said task, shovel like crazy, or hire it out to one of several people who have heavy equipment for the job. Sometimes all three might come into play. The typical hire out to plow a 100 yard driveway might be 60-80 dollars a pop. That’s per storm. It can add up. I for the time being, will be shovel happy.

I sat down at the computer yesterday to go through the photos of last summer’s 2600 mile bicycle journey, and it made my heart ache. It made me long so badly the weight of the heavily laden bicycle, the quiet solitude of the Alaskan forest, the smell of sweat, the rain, and the day to day scenery change that a long distance bicycle trip affords. For the time being, I am on a different adventure, one that I am excited about; the bicycle is on my mind, however. It has been some time since I have ridden my it, due to the reasons already spoken, and today I am to remedy this. So now, I will shut this damn computer down, get on the savage Ogre, and pedal away, into the Alaska I love.

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A Watchful Eye

This weekend turned out to be the clearest of the clear days so far this winter. At 8 am Saturday morning, as the sun was sleepily coming to fruitation, and gently coloring the peaks a flaming orange, the stillness and the contrast to the air was crystalizing. I set up the camera on the beach at the Chilkat Estuary, aimed it at the glaciers to the west, and let ‘er rip. A sequence of photos at F22 and an 8 second shutter, spread at intervals of 20 seconds, ought to make a nice sunrise time lapse I recon. I left to get some coffe…

The weather this last few weeks has been of a foreign nature. For more than 2 weeks now, it has been raining almost without fail; in fact, last night was the first night it dipped below freezing in 10 days or so. Strange indeed, since it is the  middle of Alaska winter; It is likely 30 below in Fairbanks.

After a spell, I head back to the beach to retrieve my camera and get off to work for an hour or so to get ahead on some projects. Today’s project is to get some tongue-in-groove panels made for the attic and plumbing access holes in the house we are buying. Lately, my adventure comes in the form of this new concept of buying a home; it is a new breed of adventure for sure.

Later,  getting back to the place I am staying, I process the RAW images into jpg’s and settle them into a delicious time lapse video; this one comes out better that I had hoped, and later, when it was accidentally deleted, I was heartbroken.

Up sunday morning and today is at least as glorious as the last, so off I go camera in hand and headed up the highway north of Haines, bound for the Canadian border, where gifts of stupndeous mountains and glaciers occur.

Driving north, the biggest female Moose I have ever seen, steps onto the roadway and galops across; a gentle swerve and some easy braking sees her clear. She must have been nearly 6 feet tall and close to 900 lbs. She was one big mama… I head up to the Mosquito Lake road and turn around. Stops along the Chilkat River to spy Eagles and Dolly Varden reward me with mesmerizing views of the glorious mountains and glaciers.

This place is under my skin, and I will keep a watchful eye on her…

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Just Another Day in Alaska

Winter life in Haines has been good to me so far; insofar as I have a decent paying job that I can handle, a warm and dry place to throw down in the evenings, and all set in the most beautiful place on Earth. What more could I really want? Well, work consumes most of my time and exhaustion consumes nearly what is left, so there seems little time left for adventuring.  Days are Alaskan short, and the weather, at least on my days off, tends to be, well, blizzard like. On this day I awoke, a Sunday morning, to a day unlike most: clear and striking, begging me to grab skiis and poles and tele boots and pack and camera and off into the world I go. Not the world of floor joists and rafters and drywall, but one of magical forest sunken into deep and drifted snow, blanketed in winter, with a parade of peaks jutting from the Coast Range from a world frozen and still. I stop by Mountain Market for a Bolso and a cup of mud to get my self in order, all the while reading a book on the geology of Southeast Alaska to fill the time and engage my mind a bit towards the things that strike me in regard to Alaska’s poignant location in this magnificent world.

Being new to Haines and not having much time as of late to explore and find the good places to go for winter exploration by skii, I decide to embark northward, up the Haines Highway to  mile 7 where the trail head for Mt Ripinsky’s 7 Mile Saddle lay. I figure it is worth a shot, since all I aim to accomplish really, is get a good look at the jagged escarpment of the Cathedral Peaks and the mighty and glaciated Mt Emmerich. If I actually got to spin the skiis around for a turn or three, it would be a bonus I reckon. People have spoken of the trail as hard to follow and ridiculously steep, but what the hell, I’ll give it a shot.

I drive north, searching for a place to pull over where I won’t get buried by the occasional snow plow and spy a pullout on the west side of the road. Thinking ahead, I gingerly back into the paking spot in annticipation of having to gun it hard upon a later escape from it’s snowy grip. Hiking up the road with skiis in hand the quarter mile to the trail, I can see immediately that this is indeed one steep mutha.

I strap the skins to the boards and the boards to my feet and off I go, poling through waist deep powder and aiming for thetreeline up ahead. As soon as I enter the trees, it becomes apparent that following the trail will be impossible, as no one has been here for many days it seems. There are no tracks an, once past the innitial BLM sign, no real sign of a trail at all. There is only deep, unconsolodated snow oand steep, endless forest for navigation.

Up I go, switchbacking, side stepping, and struggling at times to gain even a foot of elevation. Twelve inches gained in the endless powder, six inches lost. After an hour of this considerable effort, I look back toward the valley from which I have come, only to understand that I have climbed only a few hundred feet. The reward which I seek however, is nearing. The grand peaks of the Cathedral Group are coming into view, and I guess that another hundred feet up, I will be in their full and complete presence. Up I go, my heart racing from exertion and anticipating the fine view ahead. It has been downright fowl weather these last few weeks and views of the area have been extremely limited. Soon the mountains and the frozen Chilkat River are in view, and as my camera clicks away, I fight back the tears of joy to be once again witness to this right place.

Struggling through the steep, tree lined chutes and tightly forested hillside, it did not occur  that skiing out of here might be an issue for me. I am a terrible skier, I must freely admit. I skii about as well as a Brown Bear plays chess. I am what serious skier’s sometimes call a “Survival Skier”, meaning that upon pointing the skiis downhill, I am merely surviving the descent, rather than gracefully carving an artform out of it. There was a time, many years back, that I could possibly say that I had surpassed the survival skier mode, but that was then and this was now; besides, the tree lined escape route was going to be tricky even for an experienced back country snow traveler. After sometime bushwhacking through Devil’s Club and Alder, and more than my share of faceplants in the deep snow, I emerged onto the shoulder of the highway and salvation from the treachery above. A pleasant skii up the frozen and snow covered Chilkat puts me back at my truck in no time.

On the short drive back to town, one of my tire chains loosens and begins to clank against the wheel well of the truck. I decide to pull over to investigate and spot a plowed pullout ahead. As I veer of of the comfort of the packed surface of the road and onto the pullout, my truck, and heart sink deep into the depths of unpacked snow. The pullout was not what it seemed, and now finding myself on this fine and glorious day, beneath the truck snow shovel in hand digging for all I am worth. It seemed appropriate to me now, to quote  a fellow that Angela and I had passed on The Denali Highway earlier in the summer who was changing a flat tire on his truck in the mud in an Alaskan downpour. We waved to him and he responded, “Just another day in Alaska!”7 Mile Skii_1 7 Mile Skii_2 7 Mile Skii_3 7 Mile Skii_4 7 Mile Skii_5 7 Mile Skii_6 7 Mile Skii

Time

The sensation evoked in this time lapse video I just finished putting together is an accurate depiction of how my heart feels about the North Country… Some of the shots are from the past, some have never been seen before. Shot entirely on Canon’s 60D with various lenses, and edited in Final Cut Pro 7 and After Effects CS6. Photographed in British Columbia, Alberta, The Yukon, and of course, Alaska. Enjoy…